Day 80 – Cape Le Grand to Fraser Range (start of the Nullabor)

The kids had a last play on the beach while we packed away the trailer, sad to be leaving this part of WA but so glad we made the detour to enjoy it in sunshine.

Despite having several hours of travel in front of us, or perhaps because of it, we decided to whip up to the top of Frenchman’s Peak before leaving. The guidance suggested the return walk would take 2.5 hours, which we didn’t have to spare, but although steep, it didn’t look that far.

The first part was an easy frolic, but then the ascent began.

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Some of us managed it at a run….

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while I kept up the rear, just in case any of the kids came tumbling back towards me! The views were fantastic.

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We were part way back down the slope when I realised I had left a drink bottle and jumper at the top, so had to skip back up again! Oh well, good to get some exercise given we would be just sitting in the car.

I was not the only forgetful one – we realised Em’s trusty Keen’s sandals were missing – they had to either be back at the campsite, or down near Hellfire Bay, which we had visited the day before. Both places were several k’s away, but not in the same direction. Luckily we punted on Hellfire, where we found them not in the carpark, as anticipated, but abandoned on the beach  – luckily they hadn’t been washed away by the tide!

Leaving Cape Le Grand we drove past the “replica Stonehenge” that was built down in these parts a couple of years ago. I remember it being mentioned in the gossip pages of the business West Australian when I worked there, as a wealthy mining magnate had decided it would be a great thing to plunk down near Margaret River. Turns out he ran out of funds for it, and the stones got sold to some farmers near Cape Le Grand instead, where it now sits. Apparently it is quite a popular tourist attraction, but it looked so sterile and lifeless compared with the real thing!

We retraced our tracks from a few days ago up to Norseman, then turned east, embarking on the epic Nullabor journey. There was an unnerving moment when an oncoming semi-trailer started drifting into our lane – at first I thought it was a momentary lapse, but the truck kept bearing over and I had to break and honk the horn. Fortunately he flashed his lights and moved back onto his side, but it certainly got my heart pounding, and made me realise how much you can be at the mercy of other drivers, especially trucks which have probably been driving long hours for days,

We were only tackling 100km of the Eyre Highway today, and sought respite at the delightful Fraser Range Station, a 400,000 acre property that traditionally ran sheep but now runs only people – grey nomads and people like us! The homestead area is sprinkled with antique bits of farming machinery, while the original stone farm buildings ahve been beautifully restored as accommodation. The kids were instantly happy, thanks to the presence of Dana the sheepdog, who delighted in rounding them up, and because the cottage-style gardens provided passages and hidden pockets to explore.

We pitched the pop-up and enjoyed a delicious curry in the warm and well-lit camp kitchen, housed in one of the stone buildings. There was time for a couple of family board games before we collapsed into bed.

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