Day 82 – Eucla (WA) to Streaky Bay (SA)

Given the size of the dot on the map, and the fact that there is nothing for miles either side, I had expected Eucla to have some substance to it. When we booked the motel room, it had seemed on the internet there were two motels, but on checking in the lady explained that one name was a trading name and they were the same place. The next day I realised that any expectation that Eucla might have two motels was ridiculous, because the caravan park/motel IS Eucla. There is nothing else, certainly no town to speak of!

If there’s one thing you have to see in Eucla, it is the ruins of the old telegraph station, now half-buried in sand. The proliferation of rabbits resulted in vegetation on the dunes disappearing, which allowed the sand to gradually encroach on the building.

I read that in fact the building people see and take photos of is in fact the telegraph station master’s cottage. However, when we explored a little further towards the sea we came across some more ruins, so I reckon we probably saw both!

We could happily have spent hours here, as the ruins were a great place to explore and jump off!

 

 

But it’s always good to move on while everyone’s still smiling, so we embarked on the next part of the treeless plain, which by now really was looking bare (Thomas counted five trees over approximately 10km, so it is not entirely null-arbor, but nearly!).

 

 

 

Despite the signs, we didn’t see any camels or wombats, and the kangaroos were mainly of the non-breathing variety. We did, however, see a couple of dingoes. But the wildlife we were really hoping to see today was whales. I didn’t hold out much hope, not having spotted any spurts of water in the areas where the road came close to the sea. But as we turned off on the side road that leads to the Head of Bight, we were excited to see a sign that “today’s count” was 42!

We paid the rather steep $35 family entry fee that allows you to proceed down the walkway to the Bight, but quickly realised it was well worth it. The aspect was incredible, with cliffs to the right:

and sand-dunes to the left:

But the real sight to behold was right in front of us, not more than fifty metres offshore.

 

 

 

In all we spotted seven whales and calves close up, and many more dark specks further in the distance. We hearded their deep trumpeting calls, and saw a few tail slaps and rolls, although no full breaches. What an unforgettable sight.

We pushed on to the quarantine checkpoint at Ceduna (hundreds of km into South Australia, but they don’t bother checking until then because there is no farmland!) and handed over a bunch of delicious oranges. I told the quarantine chap he should have a taste as they were so juicy, but apparently its an instantly sackable offence if they partake in the confiscated goods.

We arrived in Streaky Bay just as the sun was setting and enjoyed watching the resident gang of pelicans flying and splash-landing on the water like seaplanes.